Antigua and Barbuda  – December 2022

St. John’s has a history dating back to its founding by the British in the 17th century. It was an important port during colonial times and was a major trade and commerce center. This history is reflected in the city’s architecture, which includes many beautiful colonial-era buildings, such as the St. John’s Cathedral and the Museum of Antigua and Barbuda.

We’re on a day trip led by a young local guide named Kiara and a driver who goes by “Super Al.” Within fifteen minutes, Al has taken over the guiding duties. The drive to the first site is long as Al frequently stops to give us some history, including a hospital, gas station, and sugar mills. If anything, Al is thorough.

From the capital, we head to Dow’s Hill. The fortifications at Dow’s Hill were started in 1789 to secure the ridge above the dockyard from a land attack. Designed by the Royal Engineers, the stone wall aesthetic was intended to impress and overwhelm an attacking force by making the fortification seem larger than it actually was. It was named after a British naval officer, Sir George Dow, who served as the Governor of Antigua in the 18th century.

Then we’re on to Shirley Heights Lookout, a restored military viewpoint and gun battery. The site was named after General Shirley, a British military officer who served in the 18th century. The lookout is a high point (about 490 feet) that affords a stunning view of English and Falmouth Harbours, often deemed the best view in Antigua. I have to agree and like that it’s a view one can drive to.

Our final stop for the day is Nelson’s Dockyard Village, a fully restored 18th-century naval base. It is named after Horatio Nelson, who served as the Governor of Antigua during the late 18th century (I’m noticing a pattern). The village is home to several preserved buildings and structures from the colonial era, including the dockyard itself, which was used to repair and maintain ships during the time of the British Navy’s presence on the island.

Here we are given a ticket to redeem for a rum punch, which seems to be included with every Caribbean Island tour. Not that I’m complaining. On the way back to the ship, Al sings a Bob Marley song acapella and then dives into a series of bad jokes. Nothing offensive and all eased by the rum punch.

Excerpt from the chapter “West of the Indies” from my collection On to Plan C: A Return to Travel. Buy it on Amazon.

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