St. Barts – December 2022

St. Barts, also known as Saint Barthélemy, is an overseas collectivity of France known for its luxury resorts, white sandy beaches, and clear turquoise waters. The island is popular with celebrities and tourists from around the world. It offers a variety of activities, such as sailing, snorkeling, and shopping. The official language is French, and the local currency is the Euro.


Gustavia is the main port and capital of the island, with a population of around 1,800 people. The town is set in a picturesque setting with an upscale atmosphere and colonial-era architecture. Gustavia’s main street, rue de la République, is predictably lined with high-end designer shops, fancy bistros, and bars. The town is also home to several marinas and yacht clubs, making it a popular destination for sailing and yachting.

Often considered one of the most beautiful islands in the Caribbean, St. Barts offers a tropical paradise with French flair. As promised, one can easily step into a café or market selling wine, brie, and frozen cakes that look better than what we’ve been served on our ship. Not to mention the freshly baked baguettes. It’s good to be French.


It’s not all luxury shopping and yachts, however. Located in the heart of town along Rue de Centenaire, one comes across Saint Bartholomew Anglican Church. The simple structure reflects the old charm of classic Caribbean churches, with its doors always open and all being welcome. The structure dates to 1855 and was constructed from stones brought over from the nearby St. Eustatius, a tiny Dutch island dominated by a dormant volcano.


After a failed attempt to ascend to the view from Fort Gustov (I’m blaming the heat and humidity as I’m off the muscle relaxant), we pop into a small café we’d noticed along the way. It’s not cheap, but there is air-conditioning, and the smoothies are excellent. The young woman behind the counter seems in no rush for us to leave, so we enjoy the relaxing atmosphere while people-watching from the café’s large windows.


Like most tourist destinations, removing oneself a block or two from the main area brings about quieter streets and lower prices. We wander these back streets for a while, coming across the Church of Our Lady of the Assumption, also known as the Catholic Church of Gustavia. It was built in 1829, and the style used is Spanish influenced. 


On the other side of the street is a funeral chapel built in honor of Sister Armelle, who died in 1947, and a roundabout for the Sacred Heart in honor of the sailors of St. Bartholomew. Both are colorful and surrounded by lush vegetation.


On the tender ride back to our ship, there is an older man with a walking stick who doesn’t look so well. His friend, looking concerned, tells him it’s because he didn’t take his medicine. “I did take my medicine,” he corrects his friend. “But you didn’t eat breakfast,” his friend responds. Once we reach our ship, his friend tells him they should get off last. When he does get off, he nearly passes out, and crew are called to catch him. 


We’ll see him later on during the cruise. He did not need his walking stick and looked a little thinner. I guess breakfast really is the most important meal of the day.

Excerpt from the chapter “West of the Indies” from my collection On to Plan C: A Return to Travel. Buy it on Amazon.

Back to Travel Tales | Caribbean