Alaska – July 2008

My mother was an avid traveler. Her travels included the UK, Mexico, Canada, and sailing on the RMS Queen Mary in her youth. She often traveler with her mother but, after her unexpected passing, was left to either stay at home or talk my father into travel. She thought she could do it with an Alaskan cruise, and thought it would be easier to do if I came along.

I’d never been on a cruise before and it wasn’t high on my list of travel options, but I hoped it might spark something long absent in my father and that they would begin to travel together afterward. Our agreement was that I would head off on my own for excursions and we’d meet up again for dinner.

Today’s port of call is Juneau, the capitol of Alaska. I’m heading out this morning to catch a helicopter to a glacier, where I’ll be hiking for a few hours. Of the thousands aboard the ship, only three of us have signed up for this excursion. We meet up with a Russian couple from a different cruise at the airport, along with our guide, who reminds me of Adam Savage of Mythbusters. What could possibly go wrong?

Also at the airport we are fitted with boots, waterproof gear, gaiters, and a harness. It’s then a scenic flight over Herbert Glacier to Mendenhall Glacier, where we set down. Once off the helicopter it’s helmets, ice picks, and crampons, then off to explore the glacier. We’re given a quick guide to using crampons and avoiding crevasses. It is cold and rainy but the views are simply incredible. I could spend all day exploring the area, though I am hoping that my camera doesn’t freeze.

As we begin our return, our guide asks if we’d like to use ropes to get down. We’re all in agreement, so we rappel our way down a steep drop before getting in a little more hiking. I’ve never repelled before and find it difficult to fall back as far as you need to before descending. Our guide says yes while my body says no. To encourage me, our guide slackens the rope I’m holding on to for dear life, which does the trick.

Back on the ship, I decide to celebrate my survival by hitting the smoking lounge and having a scotch along with a cigar. Not my typical evening, but it seems apropos today. Before I order, I’m joined by a family intent on smoking the Cuban cigars they purchased in Canada before they can be confiscated by US Customs upon our disembarkation. They are open to sharing and I’ve never smoked a Cuban cigar before. Tastes of leather, spice, and accomplishment.

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