Costa Rica – August 2008

Our day is supposed to begin at 7:10 a.m. with a pick up in front of the Juan Santamaria Monument in Alajuela. However, by 7:30, no one has arrived. Just as we start to realize that we have no idea who to call or what to do, the shuttle arrives, and we are off to a coffee plantation for breakfast and a tour. Of course, here in Costa Rica, they claim to have the best coffee, just as in Guatemala, you are told the same about their coffee. The coffee plantation I visited in Guatemala told us that Costa Rican coffee is better known because they are better at publicity. Don’t tell them, but I find the Costa Rican coffee tends to be smoother.

Then it’s a relatively short drive up to Poás Volcano, considered to possess the largest active crater in the world. The crater is shrouded in clouds that are saturated with sulfur. Every so often, the clouds lift, and one of the crater’s two lakes is revealed. It is a waiting game that I am willing to pay for a good photo, though the sulfur can get a little intense at times. Note to self: Bring a face mask for future volcanic visits.

La Paz Waterfall Gardens Nature Park is a privately owned and managed ecological attraction that opened in the fall of 2000, following the construction of the hiking trails, butterfly observatory, and reception area. We begin our visit by entering a bird-watching area. This is followed by a stop at the butterfly observatory. Then it is on to the waterfalls. First up is El Templo, followed by Magia Blanca, the largest and most powerful of the falls. Lastly, we catch a view of the La Paz waterfall on our way out.

To end our day, it’s a boat ride on the Sarapiquí River. The area around the river is primarily lowland tropical rainforest, having lush vegetation with a large variety of plant, animal, and insect life. We’re on the lookout for plants and animals, and the insects are on the lookout for us. Along with tourism, the river is also a local trading artery. Around the river are plantations of coffee, sugar cane, bananas, and cocoa trees.

In the morning, my host family takes me to the airport where I fly into Miami before heading back to Los Angeles. As I did not receive an exit stamp when leaving Guatemala, my passport makes it seem as if I have been in Central American for longer than I have. The Customs official in Miami seems unsure how I was able to do it while carrying only a small bag carryon. “Checked bag?” he inquires. “No, just this one,” I reply. He seems impressed.

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Excerpt from the Costa Rica chapter in my collection From Egypt to Tibet: Early Travels After a Late Start. Buy it on Amazon.

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