Mexico – June 2007

I’m in Mexico to explore Barrancas del Cobre, or Copper Canyon, a group of six distinct canyons in the southwestern part of the state of Chihuahua that is four times larger than the Grand Canyon. I’ve joined a tour by train that’s already taken us from Creel to El Fuerte and, early this morning, from El Fuerte to Barrancas. We arrive at our hotel in the afternoon, which is poised on the canyon’s edge near the highest point of the gorge.


From the striking view afforded from the hotel’s terrace, I notice a circular structure off in the distance, which becomes the focus of a hike. I’m not exactly sure how to get there, but a brief exploration behind the hotel finds what turns out to be the beginning of a trail. As I head out, I realize I am alone and have told no one where I am going. I am also traversing along the edge of the canyon at an elevation of around 8,000 feet, and I left my hiking boots at home, so I’m attempting it with sneakers.


The hike is going well until I come across a short ladder made of weathered wood. It is missing its bottom rung and is the only way up a tall boulder. I have long legs, so it’s not a problem overcoming the missing step. I continue along the boulders and narrow path until I now encounter a broken bridge, the first few feet of which are missing. This poses more of a dilemma. Should I turn around? Should I try to find another way across? Never one to let obstacles get in my way, I decided to jump and keep going.


My goal now in sight, I come across my final obstacle: a narrow wooden pole with notches cut into it acting as a ladder up to the structure I’m aiming to reach. It again comes to mind that I am alone, have told no one where I have gone, and am only one slip away from a very long fall. But I’ve come too far to stop now. I slowly ascend like a tightrope walker to the circular structure, though I still have no idea what it is. It does offer some stunning views of the canyon, so I get in some photos.


It starts to rain gently, so I quickly return to the hotel following a different route that doesn’t cling to the side of the canyon, though it does take me through someone’s backyard at one point. Back at the hotel, I head to the terrace for a drink only to find that several of my group had been following my hike with the binoculars they’d brought for birding.

“We really didn’t think you’d jump,” they tell me as I’m offered a few drinks to celebrate my exploits. I like to think the locals tell stories of “el gringo loco” who overcame three obstacles to reach his destination. However, the hotel staff probably just warns others not to attempt what this crazy gringo did.

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This travel tale is included in my collection, Can’t Get Here from There: Fifty Tales of Travel. Buy it on Amazon.

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